Coffee Cup Perspectives: Madrid to Coimbra in 48 hours

A hilly, scrubby weathered countryside dotted with low oak, pine and evergreens and slender, golden aspen all between tightly winding highway in dense, suburban Madrid was our first impression of Spain. That we were on the dry side of the mountains was evident from the moment we glimpsed the landscape, filing from the plane into the window lined terminal of Madrid. Navigating the terminal and brief route through customs quickly took our attention to other things - like trying to remember any Spanish I had ever learned. One would think that and if you knew you were headed to a foreign country a few months in advance, reviewing some basic language and history would make sense. No, i guess we were too busy traveling to Other Interesting Places. So- not exactly intentionally - we were jumping in with two feet and an appetite for adventure.

Check! We are greeted by a travel agent who hands us off very graciously to a taxi and off we go on our own! Jeff soon outpaced me in Spanish skills by an order of magnitude. By the end of the 20 km trip he and the driver were chatting about... Camaros. It was the driver who started it.

A four hour nap later, we hopped on the bus to downtown Madrid to explore on our own as the official tour started later that evening. Madrid : Twisting, crowded streets full of talkative Spaniards and tourists of every nationality punctuated by sudden plazas; pasterias wafting fragrances of baked deliciousness and cafe; butcher shops stocked overhead with cured Iberico hams and sausages. At every step in Madrid we were surrounded by eye catching, ornate buildings and crazy, Las Vegas and Disney styled street "artists", a very odd combination. It was further complicated by the trash collection union having gone on strike. Fortunately, ancient, beautiful architecture and the fascination of a foreign culture go a long way on their own. So does a little coffee shop ambience.

We slept well at the SwissHotel, and rose early, welcomed to cappuccinos and an astonishing spread of food for breakfast. then onto the motor coach and wesr: first stop, the walled city of Avila.

It was crisp and beautiful, also rather quiet since 9am is early for the Spanish on Saturday.

We of course went to see St Teresa of Avila's home, relics and church. Then walked more around the stone paved, tiny streets.

This is the church-gate of St Vincent...

A view of the autumn colors in the valley from just outside the walls...

Looking back, from the Four Pillars monument marking the taking back of Avila from the Arabs.

Then onward to the university town of Salamanca with it's astonishing double cathedral. The first took over a century to build... The second portion was started immediately after- to match the growing importance if the city. That portion took 250 years.

Not surprisingly!

The impressive square of Salamanca had every reason to be imposing. Instead, the cafes and shops, full of families and students in the afternoon sun, made it charming. Like Madrid, every tiny street was packed, but only artists were musicians.

We bought our lunch in several stops, including the central food market.

But the Iberico Jamos (hams) and fresh fish we resisted, except for that served up on a crusty baguette.

Then west again...

Salamanca, from afar.

Over the mountains into Portugal this afternoon... The plains with distant mountains and dry scrub gave way to rocky mountainsides, little green pastures and tiny vineyards. Then wider, lusher valleys...

And on to Coimbra, also an ancient university town. It is settled on a much steeper hill, making the climb up flagstones in the dusk a bit tricky, but twice as memorable.

Technical problems have left out several pictures, but hopefully I'll add a few more soon. I promise Jeff is with me! in fact, it sort of goes- Jeff takes pictures of Teresa, Teresa takes pictures of... scenes. and Jeff! but not on the i-phone.

Jeff also takes pictures of cars: